Make Custom Display Bases on a Budget: 3D Printers, Phone Scans and Finishing Tips

Hook: Stop settling for cheap plastic stands — make museum-worthy bases on a budget

If you’re tired of store-bought bases that don’t fit your minis, don’t match the statue’s scale, or look toy‑grade next to a prized piece, this guide is for you. Today’s phone scanners and sub-$300 3D printers (yes, really) let collectors produce custom display bases that look like they belong in a gallery — without breaking the bank or learning advanced CAD.

The reality in 2026: Why now is the perfect time to DIY display bases

Phone-based 3D scanning and budget 3D printing matured fast in late 2024–2025. Apps added AI denoise/cleanup and faster retopology, and major manufacturers streamlined low-cost models and warehousing so hobbyists can get capable printers within a week. Brands like Anycubic and Creality pushed MSLA and FDM models that deliver hobby-level tolerances. Combined with improved slicers and affordable resins, the result is a realistic, accessible pipeline for collectors.

What’s changed since 2025

• Phone scanning apps (Polycam, RealityScan and others) added AI denoise/cleanup and faster retopology, cutting manual mesh repair time by 50% for many users.
• Budget resin printers (MSLA) hit higher native resolutions and more reliable coatings — great for miniatures and fine detail bases.
• Entry-level FDM printers improved first-layer reliability and filament options — best for larger statue bases and structural parts.
• Marketplaces and kits for basing (textures, tufts, brass inserts, magnets) are more integrated into the hobby ecosystem — so finishing looks professional without specialist tools.

Overview: Workflow at a glance

Here’s the high-level process you’ll follow. Each step below is expanded into detailed, actionable instructions you can use for a 32mm miniature or a 1:10 statue.

1. Plan: measure your figure and decide scale, mounting, and style.
2. Scan: capture the subject (or scene) with your phone.
3. Process: clean, scale, and design the base/peg in software.
4. Print: use resin (MSLA) for tiny details or FDM for large forms.
5. Finish: sand, prime, paint, and mount with inserts/magnets.
6. Protect & display: varnish, case, and label as you would a museum piece.

Step 1 — Plan like a curator

Take 10–20 minutes to plan. Good planning saves filament, resin, and time.

• Measure your figure: height, foot/peg diameter, and where the center of gravity sits. Note any protruding elements.
• Decide mounting method: press-fit peg, M3 threaded insert, or magnets. For minis, a 1.5–2mm peg is common; for large statues, use threaded brass inserts or embedded metal rods for strength.
• Choose style: diorama, plaque, terrain, or mirrored/clear riser. Sketch a rough composition — foreground, negative space, and label area.
• Budget: If you already own a resin printer like an Anycubic Photon series or a Creality Halot, favor resin for small micro-details; otherwise, a Creality FDM is better for large pieces.

Step 2 — Phone scanning: capture the subject

Modern phone scanning is surprisingly robust. Use these tips to get a clean scan the first time.

What you’ll need

• A smartphone with a high-resolution camera (iPhone 12/13/14/15+ Pro or recent Android flagship is excellent). LiDAR helps but isn’t required.
• A scanning app: Polycam, RealityScan or similar (2026 versions include AI mesh cleanup).
• A neutral background and consistent lighting (avoid harsh shadows).

Step-by-step phone-scan technique

1. Put the figure on a turntable or rotate around it slowly where you can keep the camera at a consistent distance (20–30 cm for minis).
2. Take overlapping passes: low angle, mid angle, and top-down. Aim for 60–120 photos for a 360° capture of a small subject.
3. Keep lighting diffuse — use LED panels or bounce light from a white surface. Avoid direct sunlight with harsh shadows.
4. In the app, choose the highest quality/mesh density you can handle. Use the app’s auto-alignment first, then switch to manual if parts misalign.
5. Export as an OBJ/PLY/GLB for mesh and textures. If the app offers automatic retopology and texture bake, use it — it saves time later.

Common scanning problems (and fixes)

• Shiny or reflective surfaces: dust them with talc or a matte spray to reduce reflections before scanning.
• Small thin parts (swords, antennae): scan multiple passes and use higher sampling in the app.
• Texture blur: retake with slower camera movement and more overlap.

Step 3 — Process the scan for printing

Once you have a mesh, it’s time to clean, scale, and design the base. Use a mix of free and paid tools depending on your comfort level.

Software suggestions

• Mesh cleanup & retopology: Blender (free), Meshmixer (free for quick fixes).
• CAD additions: Fusion 360 (free for hobbyists), Tinkercad (web-based, simple), or Blender for organic bases.
• Slicers: Chitubox for MSLA/resin, Cura or Creality Slicer for FDM.

Key processing steps

1. Decimate the mesh if it’s extremely heavy — aim for a balance between detail and file size.
2. Fill holes and remove floating geometry. Meshmixer’s Inspector tool is fast here.
3. Create the mounting interface: boolean a socket into the base that matches the figure’s peg. Add 0.1–0.2 mm clearance for press-fit parts, more for printed tolerances.
4. Embed hardware if needed: model a recess for a threaded insert or a magnet pocket (remember polarity when printing multiple parts!).
5. Scale properly — check millimeters. For minis, 32mm base diameters and 2–3 mm peg heights are common; for statues, design a load-bearing plate.

Step 4 — Choose the right printer & material

Picking resin vs. filament depends on detail and size. Here’s how to decide and some practical tips.

Resin (MSLA) — use when detail matters

• Best for small miniatures and ornate bases. Prints capture fine textures and sculpted bas-relief.
• Budget models from Anycubic and Creality in 2025–2026 can produce 4K-level detail for under $300.
• Typical settings: 0.025–0.05 mm layer height, supports for overhangs, and orientation that minimizes visible layer lines on top-facing surfaces.
• Post-process: isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or alternatives (ethanol, purpose-built wash), UV curing, nitrile gloves, and ventilation. Cured resin dust should be avoided when sanding.

FDM (filament) — use for large, structural bases

• Best for statues and low-detail larger bases: stronger, cheaper per volume.
• Typical settings: 0.12–0.24 mm layer height, 10–20% infill for display stands (increase to 30–40% under load points), 0.4 mm nozzle.
• Use PLA for ease, PETG for more durability, or ABS for higher-temperature resistance (but ventilate when printing).

Cost-saving note

If you don’t own a printer yet, late-2025 deal patterns still make entry-level Anycubic and Creality printers a good buy — AliExpress and official manufacturer stores often stock US warehouses for faster shipping and warranty service.

Step 5 — Printing best practices (actionable settings)

Below are practical slicer and print tips for hobbyists. Your exact exposure times/temperatures vary by resin and printer, so use manufacturer baseline values and test prints.

Resin print checklist

• Layer height: 0.025–0.05 mm for minis. Lower = finer detail, longer time.
• Supports: Use tree supports and place contact points on non-display surfaces when possible.
• Orientation: Angle the piece ~10–30° to reduce layer lines on visible faces and to optimize supports.
• Exposure: Start with manufacturer settings. Reduce layer time only after successful test prints.
• Post-wash: 2–5 minutes in IPA or recommended solvent, then cure under UV for 3–10 minutes depending on lamp strength.

FDM print checklist

• Nozzle: 0.4 mm for a balance of detail and speed.
• Layer height: 0.12–0.24 mm (smaller for smoother finishes).
• Shells: 2–3 perimeters. Use more around mounting points.
• Infill: 10–30% depending on strength needs. Add internal bracing or sacrificial ribs under the mount if necessary.
• Brim/raft for better bed adhesion on thin bases.

Step 6 — Finishing: make it museum-worthy

Finishing separates hobby-grade from museum-worthy. Spend time sanding, priming, and carefully painting.

Surface prep

• Resin: Sand starting at 220 grit to remove supports, then 400, 800, and wet-sand 1200 for a buttery finish on smooth bases.
• FDM: Use filler primer (automotive or hobby-grade) to close layer lines. Sand between coats (220 → 400 → 800).
• Use automotive spot putty or acrylic filler for seam lines and gaps.

Priming & painting

• Apply a thin, even primer — gray for mid-tones, white if you plan bright colors.
• Basecoat: spray or airbrush for uniform coverage; hand-paint accents and texture washes.
• Weathering: washes, dry brushing, and pigment powders give depth and realism.
• Seal: Use a satin or matte varnish for museum-style presentation. Gloss selectively for wet/metal details.

Mounting hardware & longevity

• For press-fit pegs: drill a snug hole into the base and use cyanoacrylate (super glue) sparingly.
• For repeated removal: embed M3 brass threaded inserts or use magnets. For magnets, recess both parts and epoxy for a flush fit.
• For heavy statues: use a metal rod epoxied into the statue and a matching socket in the base with a large contact area.

Display & preservation: protect your work like a museum

Once mounted, think like a conservator. UV-filtering display cases, humidity control, and minimal handling preserve paint and parts.

• Use UV-filter acrylic cases for sunlight exposure protection; display in indirect light when possible.
• Avoid petroleum-based cleaners near painted surfaces. Use soft microfiber for cleaning.
• Label your base with a small plaque or printed tag — a museum-style label increases perceived value and protects provenance.

Two short case studies from collectors

Case A — 32mm mini with a bas-relief plaque (resin workflow)

A collector scanned a hand-painted 32mm figure, used Polycam to produce a high-detail mesh, and designed a raised bas-relief crest in Blender. Printed on an Anycubic-style MSLA printer at 0.035 mm, the final base was wet-sanded to 1200 grit, primed, and given a stone wash. Result: a gallery-ready miniature that matches the figure's scale and patina.

Case B — 1:10 statue pedestal (hybrid workflow)

For a larger resin statue, the collector printed a decorative ring on an MSLA printer for the visible lip and used FDM to print a hollow structural core. The pieces were epoxied together, brass inserts installed for the statue anchor, and the assembled pedestal received automotive primer and a satin topcoat — museum-worthy at a fraction of custom fabrication cost.

Advanced tips & tricks collectors love

• Texture stamps: Create and re-use small printable texture stamps (rock, cobblestone, wood grain) to add consistent surface detail to multiple bases.
• Multi-part printing: Print complex bases in interlocking parts to reduce supports and to orient each piece for the best surface finish.
• Hidden weights: Add brass or lead weights in cavities to lower the center of gravity without visible changes.
• Batch printing: Design a modular base with interchangeable top plates for different figures — print a common pedestal and swap tops for variety.

Safety & sustainability

Resin and some post-processing steps are hazardous. Wear nitrile gloves, safety glasses, and mask when sanding cured resin. Work in ventilated areas and dispose of solvent and waste according to local rules. For sustainability, use recycled filament and minimize failed prints with test prints and careful orientation.

Troubleshooting quick reference

• Prints not sticking (FDM): level the bed, clean with isopropyl alcohol, try a brim.
• Fine detail lost (resin): increase resolution, reduce layer height, check exposure times.
• Thin features snapping: add fillets or internal ribs, use stronger material or increase thickness slightly.
• Scan holes or gaps: fill in Meshmixer/Blender and rescan missing angles if needed.

Future trends to watch (2026 and beyond)

Expect more automation in 3D scanning apps (instant retopology optimized for printing), better low-cost MSLA screens at higher resolutions, and hybrid materials that make printed bases both detailed and tough. Marketplaces will also continue to expand high-quality basing assets and community templates so collectors can download, tweak, and print without reinventing the wheel. If you want curated collections, check our Collector Guides & Grading hub for printer bundles, downloadable base kits, and video walkthroughs tailored to Anycubic and Creality models.

Actionable takeaway checklist

1. Decide resin (small, detailed pieces) or FDM (large, strong pieces).
2. Scan with a modern app, taking multiple overlapping passes in diffuse light.
3. Clean up the mesh, model a peg/socket with 0.1–0.2 mm clearance, and embed hardware recesses.
4. Print test pieces at low cost before committing to full-size prints.
5. Sanding → primer → paint → varnish — take time on prep for a museum finish.

Wrap-up & call-to-action

Custom display bases are no longer a luxury reserved for professional fabricators. With the right planning, a capable budget printer from makers like Anycubic or Creality, and a smartphone, you can create museum-style bases that elevate your entire collection. Ready to start? Download our free set of base templates and step-by-step project files — or explore curated lists of budget printers, resins, and finishing supplies to get your first project off the ground this weekend. For video setup and streaming your build, see building low-latency live streams, and for monitoring long print jobs and print-farm workflows, our guide on modern observability has practical tips.

Want templates and printer-specific profiles? Visit our Collector Guides & Grading hub for printer bundles, downloadable base kits, and video walkthroughs tailored to Anycubic and Creality models.